How To Choose a Good Derma Roller at Home

Shopping for at-home derma rollers can be intimidating given the many options available today. And the fact that bad rollers can leave needles stuck in your skin and cause skin irritation makes it even more complicated. So, where do you begin?

Well, there are so many factors to consider and specific criteria that should be met to choose a high-quality derma roller. Here is a quick breakdown of what you should look out for:

The Material Used To Make The Needles

The best needle material is the medical-grade stainless steel. It has potent antimicrobial properties that eliminate the possibility of infections. It is also sharper than other needle materials such as titanium. Using a stainless steel needle will, therefore, protect your skin from blunt abrasion and ultimate damage. Avoid titanium needles because they don’t have anti-microbial properties and seldom get sharp given that titanium is a very strong metal.

Needle size

Each derma roller needle creates a tiny channel in your skin to allow serums and other cosmetic products to be easily absorbed. To ensure that the process is effective and less painful, it is important to choose the right needle gauge thickness. The best needle should be small less painful but also thick enough so that it doesn’t break when it pierces your skin.

You should also choose a needle size based on the skin condition that you want to treat. Here is a quick guide on what you should know about needle sizes:

  • 0.2mm-0.3mm: This needle size is completely pain-free as it reaches just the epidermis. It is recommended for enhancing the penetration of cosmetic products.
  • 0.5mm: This is highly recommended for light acne scars and as an anti-aging treatment as it penetrates deeper than the previous size. It can be a bit painful but most users report that they can manage it without the need for topical anesthetic.
  • 1.00 mm: Suitable for treating light skin stretch marks. It is the maximum needle size to use on the face, particularly for women who tend to have thinner skins than men. It is not only painful but can also leave your skin reddish. Application of topic anesthetic is recommended after using this needle size.
  • 1.5 mm: Recommended for deeper and more visible body scars and stretch marks. It is painful and your skin will be reddened and a bit painful to touch after using it. Never use it on your face and apply topical anesthetic after the procedure.
  • 2.0+mm: These are only recommended for men with severe scars or deep stretch marks on fleshier parts like buttock, thighs, and back. They are only suitable for professional users who are certain about what they want to achieve.
  • Number of Needles

The number of needles in derma rollers ranges between 180 and 1200. Choose a needle count based on the part of the body that you want to treat. If you are looking for just one roller head, 600 needles rollers are recommended as they work for every part of the body. If you are looking for something more specific, 180 needles rollers are recommended for under-eyes, 600 for face, and 1200 needles for the body.

Additional Features

A good derma roller should come with additional features for more convenience. For instance, considering that different treatments may need varying needle sizes to produce optimum results, a good derma roller should feature detachable roller heads to cater to various needle sizes.

You should also opt for a derma roller with protective covers to prevent accidental bending of the needles or damage to your skin. Besides, damaged needles may cause infections. A top-rated derma roller should, therefore, include a quality protective cover.

Avoid Cheap Products

A lot of at-home derma roller vendors will try to sell you rollers with ‘cool’ features at a price point that’s too good to be true. Instead of falling for discounts or the urge to save a few bucks, always remember that if it sounds or seems too good to be true then probably it is. Trying to save $3 now can make you regret later when your roller dysfunctions sooner than you expected. Don’t worry so much about the price because this is something that you are going to use on your skin and will serve you for a while.

Disinfect the roller before use

Tiny needles are penetrating your skin, so obviously you want to disinfect those needles first. Soak the roller in 70% isopropyl alcohol. Leave it for 10 minutes.

Wash your skin in warm water

It’s important to start with clean skin. For example, you could use a gentle foaming cleanser for your face to thoroughly clean your skin. Bar soap or shower gel and water for other parts of your body are fine. The point is you need to start with clean skin, and it’s fine to use your typical cleansers.

Disinfect your skin if you’re using longer needles

Longer needles mean deeper penetration, which in turn can lead to infection. If you’re using needles longer than 0.5 millimeters long, you should disinfect your skin in addition to the roller. Gently swipe rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl) all across your skin.

Begin with a numbing cream if you prefer

Most people aren’t sensitive to the needles, but if you’re sensitive to pain, you can use a numbing cream first, particularly if you have needles that are 1.0 millimeter or longer. Rub a lidocaine cream into the area, and leave it for 20 minutes before you start rolling.

Roll vertically

Start on one edge of the area. Roll up it from top to bottom, avoiding the eye socket area if you’re doing your face. Lift it up, and roll over the same area again, repeating 6 times in total. Move the roller over and repeat. Keep going until you’ve done the whole area.

Roll horizontally

Starting at the top or bottom, roll across the area horizontally. Lift up, and roll over the same area again. Roll over it 6 times altogether. Move down or up a little bit, and repeat the process until you’ve done the whole area.

Stop rolling after 2 minutes, particularly on your face

You can overdo it with microneedling, especially on your face. Therefore, it’s a good idea to limit each rolling session to under 2 minutes if you can.

Rinse your face

After you’re done, rinse off your face. You can just use water, since you’ve already cleansed your face, but you need to remove any blood traces. You can also use a gentle cleanser if you prefer.

Hydrate your skin

It can help to use a hydration product after you’re done. For instance, a sheet mask can help you hydrate and heal. Another option is applying an anti-aging or anti-wrinkle serum after you’re done. These serums will penetrate more deeply because of the micro holes.

Clean the roller in dish soap and water

Wash your roller off using dish soap and hot water. Dish soap is better than other soaps at removing the tiny particles of blood and skin on your roller. Put the soap and water in a clean container, and shake the roller around in the water.

Disinfect the roller after use

Shake off excess water. Put the roller in 70% isopropyl alcohol. Let it soak for 10 minutes before shaking off the alcohol. Give it a chance to air dry before putting it away.


You can only achieve the best results with at-home derma rolling if you choose the best types of rollers. Hopefully, the above tips have shed some light on what to look out for when shopping for a good derma roller. Remember that your skin is beautiful, so wear it well by going for safe and effective products, including at-home derma rollers.

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